Vietnam (Việt Nam), officially the Socialist Republic of Vietnam (Cộng hòa xã hội chủ nghĩa Việt Nam) is a long, thin country in Southeast Asia. Its neighbouring countries are China to the north, Laos and Cambodia to the west.
History
Occupied by China no fewer than four times, the
Vietnamese managed to fight off the invaders just as often. At various points
during these thousand years of imperial dynasties, Vietnam was ravaged and
divided by civil wars and repeatedly attacked by the Songs, Mongols, Yuans,
Chams, Mings, Dutch, Qings, French and the Americans. The victories mostly
belonged to the Vietnamese but, even during the periods in history when Vietnam
was independent, it was mostly a tributary state to China until the French
colonisation. Vietnam's last emperors were the Nguyễn Dynasty, who ruled from
their capital at Hue from 1802 to 1945, although France exploited the
succession crisis after the fall of Tự Đức to de facto colonise Vietnam after
1884. Both the Chinese occupation and French colonisation have left a lasting
impact on Vietnamese culture, with Confucianism forming the basis of Vietnamese
social etiquette, and the French leaving a lasting imprint on Vietnamese
cuisine.
After a brief Japanese occupation in World War II, the
Communist Viet Minh under the leadership of Hồ Chí Minh continued the
insurgency against the French, with the last Emperor Bao Dai abdicating in 1945
and a proclamation of independence following soon after. The majority of French
had left by 1945, but in 1946 they returned to continue the fight until their
decisive defeat at Dien Bien Phu in 1954. The Geneva Conference partitioned the
country into two at the 17th parallel of latitude, with a Communist-led North
and Ngo Dinh Diem declaring himself President of the Republic of Vietnam in the
South.
Fighting between South Vietnam and the North Vietnamese
backed Viet Cong escalated into what became known as the Vietnam War - although
the Vietnamese officially refer to it as the American War. US economic and
military aid to South Vietnam grew through the 1960s in an attempt to bolster
the Southern Vietnam government, escalating into the dispatch of half a million
American troops in 1966. What was supposed to be a quick and decisive action
soon degenerated into a quagmire and US armed forces were only withdrawn
following a cease-fire agreement in 1973. Two years later, on 30 April 1975, a
North Vietnamese tank drove into the South's Presidential Palace in Ho Chi Minh
City and the war ended with the conquest of South Vietnam. An estimated 800,000
to 3 million Vietnamese and over 55 thousand Americans had been killed.
The Vietnam war was only one of many that the Vietnamese
have fought, but it was the most brutal in its history.
Over two thirds of the current population was born after 1975.
American tourists will receive a particularly friendly welcome in Vietnam, as
many young Vietnamese ape American mores and venerate US pop culture.
Politics
Vietnam is a one party authoritarian state, with the
President as the Head of State, and the Prime Minister as the Head of
Government. The Vietnamese legislature is the unicameral National Assembly,
from which the Prime Minister is selected. In practice, the President's
position is only ceremonial, with the Prime Minister wielding the most authority
in government.
Economy
Economic reconstruction of the reunited country has
proven difficult. After the failures of the state-run economy started to become
apparent, the country launched a program of đổi mới (renovation), introducing
elements of capitalism. The policy has proved highly successful, with Vietnam
recording near 10% growth yearly (except for a brief interruption during the
Asian economic crisis of 1997). The economy is much stronger than those of
Cambodia, Laos, and other neighbouring developing countries. Like most
Communist countries around the world, there is a fine balance between allowing
foreign investors and opening up the market.
In practical terms, you'll find rampant capitalism at the
"retail" level, with shopkeepers and sellers from carts exercising
great flexibility in pricing and how they do business. As those business people
go up levels of permissions to operate (e.g., where they do business),
government controls quickly take over.
There are extreme restrictions on foreigners owning
property or attempting to sell. It is very difficult for them to trade without
negotiating 'fees'. Business can be done via local partnerships with all the
attendant risks.
Power and services is another issue. There are often
'rolling blackouts' when there is not enough electricity at times. For this
reason, many shops have portable generators.
According to government estimates Vietnam sees 3.3m
tourist arrivals each year. Vietnam has a return rate of just 5% compared to
Thailand’s whopping 50%.
People
Most people in Vietnam are ethnic Vietnamese (Kinh),
though there is a sizeable ethnic Chinese community in Ho Chi Minh City, most
who are descended from migrants from Guangdong province and are hence bilingual
in Cantonese or other Chinese dialects and Vietnamese. There are also numerous
other ethnic groups who occupy the mountainous parts of the country, such as
the Hmong, Muong and Dao people. There is also a minority ethnic group in the
lowlands near the border with Cambodia known as the Khmer Krom.
Buddhism, mostly of the Mahayana school, is the single
largest religion in Vietnam, with over 85% of Vietnamese people identifying
themselves as Buddhist. Catholicism is the second largest religion, followed by
the local Cao Dai religion. Other Christian denominations, Islam, and local
religions also share small followings throughout the southern and central
areas.
Culture
Due to its long history as a tributary state of China, as
well as several periods of Chinese occupations, Vietnamese culture is heavily
influenced by that of Southern China, with Confucianism forming the basis of
Vietnamese society. The Vietnamese language also contains many loan words from
Chinese, though the two languages are unrelated. Buddhism remains the single
largest religion in Vietnam, though like in China but unlike in the rest of
northern South east Asia, the dominant school of Buddhism in Vietnam is the
Mahayana School.
Nevertheless, Vietnamese culture remains distinct from
Chinese culture as it has also absorbed cultural elements from neighbouring
Hindu civilizations such as the Champa and the Khmer empires. The French
colonization has also left a lasting impact on Vietnamese society, with
baguettes and coffee remaining popular among locals.
Climate
Vietnam is large enough to have several distinct climate
zones.
The North has four distinct seasons, with a comparatively
chilly winter (temperatures can dip below 15°C/59°F in Hanoi), a hot and wet
summer and pleasant spring (March-April) and autumn (October-December) seasons.
However, in the Highlands both extremes are amplified, with occasional snow in
the winter and temperatures hitting 40°C (104°F) in the summer.
In the Central regions the Hai Van pass separates two
different weather patterns of the North starting in Langco (which is hotter in
summer and cooler in winter) from the milder conditions South starting in
Danang. North East Monsoon conditions September - February with often strong
winds, large sea swells and rain make this a miserable and difficult time to
travel through Central Vietnam. Normally summers are hot and dry.
The South has three somewhat distinct seasons: hot and
dry from March to May/June; rainy from June/July to November; and cool and dry
from December to February. April is the hottest month, with mid-day
temperatures of 33°C (91°F) or more most days. During the rainy season,
downpours can happen every afternoon, and occasional street flooding occurs.
Temperatures range from stifling hot before a rainstorm to pleasantly cool
afterwards. Mosquitoes are most numerous in the rainy season. December to
February is the most pleasant time to visit, with cool evenings down to around
20° (68°F).
Holidays
By far the largest holiday of the year is Tết,
celebration of the New Year (as marked by the lunar calendar), which takes
place between late January and March on the Western calendar and usually
coincides with the Chinese New Year.
Lunar New Year dates
The year of the Horse started on 31 Jan 2014
The year of the Goat will begin on 19 Feb 2015
The year of the Monkey will begin on 8 Feb 2016
The year of the Rooster will begin on 28 Jan 2017
In the period leading up to Tết, the country is abuzz
with preparations. Men on motorbikes rush around delivering potted tangerine
trees and flowering bushes, the traditional household decorations. People get a
little bit stressed out and the elbows get sharper, especially in big cities,
where the usual hectic level of traffic becomes almost homicidal. Then a few
days before Tết the pace begins to slow down, as thousands of city residents
depart for their ancestral home towns in the provinces. Finally on the first
day of the new year an abrupt transformation occurs: the streets become quiet,
almost deserted. Nearly all shops and restaurants close for three days, (the
exception being a few that cater especially to foreign visitors; and hotels
operate as usual.)
In the major cities, streets are decorated with lights
and public festivities are organized which attract many thousands of residents.
But for Vietnamese, Tết is mostly a private, family celebration. On the eve of
the new year, families gather together and exchange good wishes (from more
junior to more senior) and gifts of "lucky money" (from more senior
to more junior). In the first three days of the year, the daytime hours are
devoted to visiting -- houses of relatives on the first day, closest friends
and important colleagues on the second day, and everyone else on the third day.
Many people also visit pagodas. The evening hours are spent drinking and
gambling (men) or chatting, playing, singing karaoke, and enjoying traditional
snacks and candy (women and children.)
Visiting Vietnam during Tết has good points and bad
points. On the minus side: modes of transport are jammed just before the
holiday as many Vietnamese travel to their home towns; hotels fill up, especially
in smaller towns; and your choice of shopping and dining is severely limited in
the first days of the new year (with a few places closed up to two weeks). In
Saigon, most shops are closed for a whole week after new years day. Restaurants
may charge a higher than normal price, e.g. adding a 20% "Happy New
Year" fee. Beware that crowded places are ideal for pickpockets. On the
plus side, you can observe the preparations and enjoy the public festivities;
pagodas are especially active; no admission is charged to those museums and
historical sites that stay open; and the foreigner-oriented travel industry of
backpacker buses and resort hotels chugs along as usual. Visitors also stand a
chance of being invited to join the festivities, especially if you have some
local connections or manage to make some Vietnamese friends during your stay.
When visiting during Tết, it's wise to get settled somewhere at least two days
before the new year, and don't try to move again until a couple of days after.
Lesser
holidays include:
- New Year 1 January.
- Hùng Kings' Festival (Giỗ tổ Hùng Vương) on the 10th day
of the 3rd lunar month commemorating the first kings of Vietnam.
- Liberation Day (Ngày giải phóng miền Nam) on 30 April,
marking the fall of Saigon in 1975.
International Workers' Day (Ngày Quốc tế Lao động) 1 May,
the traditional socialist labour day. Around those times (Vietnamese often call
30 Apr-1 May holiday - the second longest holiday after Tết), trains and planes
tend to be sold out, and accommodations at the beach or in Dalat are hard to
find. Best to book far in advance.
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